How to Convert Your RC Car Into Drift Spec

by Gregory Alexander

Remote Control Drifting is taking off in a big way, in this article I show you step by step how to convert that old 1/10 touring car into a drifters dream machine. It’s very simple and generally only takes a couple of hours, using this practical guide I’ll have you sideways before you know it.
What exactly is drifting?

In a nut shell drifting is the art of changing the angle of attack of your car, while still maintaining full control, so in a typical drift driver X approaches the corner and turns in hard too early, this will bring the rear of the car around, Driver X will then turn back into the slide and keep the car going around the corner while maintaining as much angle and speed as possible, then he will over correct and throw the car into another slide right after the first one, with as little straight lining as possible.

Where do I start?
The first thing you need is a RC car, I’ll use two examples, both of which I’ve had personal experience with, the Tamiya TT01 and the Tamiya TA05. The first step to drifting is to break that traction, due to the power to weight ratio of RC Cars we need a little help, Drift Tires are all you need to get sideways, but there is a little more you can do if you want to compete. If you can’t find RC Drift tires you can use insulation tape, be sure to wrap it in the same direction that the wheel will be turning, a good trick is to lay it down and roll you RC Car over it, this is the right way, Taped tires tend to work best on surfaces that already have a little to no traction, i.e. an underground parking lot, but they don’t last long. Drift tires all have different tractions, more traction = bigger drifts, but this is useless if you need to compete on a tight track as the amount of torque used to break traction will also generate a lot of speed, in the end it’s down to personal preference.

What next?
Okay so you taped your tires and played around a bit, not we need to get the car to be more predictable, all the standard racing setting apply, shocks, ride height and wheel angles are up to you, but if there is a must have it’s the rear differential, you need to lock it, this is also know as a spool diff, basically it means that both wheels must turn at the same time. The result is a car that will break and regain traction on command, the drifts will also be much easier to control, more throttle = more angle, less throttle = less angle.

TT01
The Tamiya TT01 uses a planetary gear setup for the rear diff, which is easy to convert (and convert back should you change your mind later) the two most command ways to lock this diff are 1. Open the Diff and fill it with glue from a glue gun, or 2. Take a small piece of fuel tubing ,cut it open along it’s length, and roll this around one of the planetary gears. Once done close the diff and check if it give the desired result before you put it back. The other option is to buy a hop-up spool diff.

Tamiya-TT-01

TA05
The TA05 uses a ball diff at the back and the front, this is not as easy to modify, but it can be done. The way I modified mine was to use pop rivets. I opened the diff and removed the ball bearings and metal plates that the balls run along. I then drilled three small holes in the side, getting both halves of the diff. I then pop riveted them together and filed down the rivets. This worked, but be careful. 1. It’s not reversible and if you make a mistake the diff will be destroyed. 2. It doesn’t last long, eventually the forces that go through the diff will destroy this because it’s been weakened by holes. A Spool diff is available for the TA05 and this is the preferred options.

What about the front diff?
Now that we have a solid platform we can experiment with slightly different setups to find the one that suites us best, this varies from car to car, but the principle is the same. I personally love using a front one-way diff, or a center one-way diff for more control. The downside is that using brakes at any time is the same as using you e-brake (hand-brake) in a real car, the tail will slide around in a 180, while this can be useful to initiate a drift and transition to a second drift from the first it’s very easy to spin out, so most people prefer not to use the one-ways. Once again this is down to personal preference.

Why drifting is much better than racing.
Well I love both, but from the drifting side it takes a lot more skill and a lot less car, what I mean is that while racing takes skill, you can compensate with an awesome car, there is no way a TT01 will consistently win in a race against a carbon fibre racing machine. But with drifting you can, a TT01 can out perform any car out there, yes it will be difficult, but so much of drifting is down to driver skill that anything can happen. This being the case it’s also possible to get into drifting with very little financial backing (unlike racing)

I hope this article has given you some idea’s about drifting, please feel free to contact me if you have any suggestions or need any advice, advice is always free, like the rest of my site.

About the Author
Gregory Alexander was born in Johannesburg, South Africa. He spent most of his younger days travelling the world, but eventually settled back home. He first got interested in Remote Control several years ago, since then it has grown into an obsession, now a successful RC Racer and Drifter he shares his knowledge with the world. More free articles and information can be found on his website : Free

How to remove glued rc drift tyres

RC drift tyres can take some damage depending on your technique and the surface you are drifting on. Many people have invested in a sweet looking set of matching rims so don’t want to throw them away once the tyres are damaged. So how do you remove glued drift tyres?

There are a couple of methods to do this, but we’re going to focus on boiling the tyres and rims. It is perfectly safe for both the wheel and the tyre. So no matter which you are trying to reuse, you should be fine. However it should be noted that the chrome finish on some wheels may be dulled or removed by this procedure.

This is the equipment you will need to remove drift tyres:

  • A Pan big enough to cover your tyre in water + extra + room for boiling bubbles
  • A towel
  • Flat head screwdriver (slightly smaller then the gap where the wheel will glue in)
  • A heat source (e.g. Hob or gas ring (NO MICROWAVES!))
  • Towel
  • Wooden Shaft or frying pan flipper
  • A Cutting/Hobby Knife

The first thing you’ll want to do is boil some water in the large saucepan. We advise using an old pan or you may find yourself in trouble with your mother/girlfriend/wife for ruining her best saucepans. Once the water is boiling place the tyre in the pan. You want to make sure you boil the entire tyre for 15 minutes. You can hold the tire underwater with a utensil for 15 minutes or, since the tyre will float, you can boil one side for 15 minutes and then flip it to boil the other for 15 minutes. Either method will work, it doesn’t matter.

Be very careful during the whole process, the water, kitchen utensils, tyres and the rims can get hot enough to scald you!

If you do not plan on reusing the tyres, you may want to slit them in half all the way around the tyre before you boil them. This way no water will be trapped in them, and the boiling water can freely access the glue all the way around the tyre bead.

After the tyre has boiled use a pair of tongs, or other kitchen utensil, and pull it out of the water. I will usually cool it down by running cool tap water over it. This will not cause the glue to re-stick, as once the glue’s hold has broken it will stay loose. Alternatively you can also just set the tyre to the side for around 30 minutes or so.

Once the tyre has cooled, you can simply pull it loose from the rim. Be careful though, as there can still be hot water inside the tyre which could burn you. You may still encounter a couple of tough spots that do not want to break loose from the rim. You can the hobby knife to trim around these stubborn spots. If you find that a lot of the tire is still stuck to the rim, boil the tyre for another 15 minutes.

Once the tyre and the rim have been separated, clean the parts you plan on reusing and set them aside to dry. You may find it necessary to sand some areas of the rim where the rubber had adhered to it, but overall it should be a pretty clean separation.

Top Tips
* BE CAREFUL – It’s boiling water dummy!
* Wash excess dirt and mud off the wheels before hand
* If tyre has little actually still attached – it MAY come off when been twisted
* The hotter the rim stays the easier it comes off
* DONT be too aggressive with the rimk and it may bend or buckle

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