Your rc drift radio shouldn’t be taken for granted. It is, after all, your only link to your rc drift car, and the only means for you to control where it goes – and where it doesn’t. If you’re relatively new to RC, you might have started out with an inexpensive AM radio (or it came with your RTR kit.) If you’re looking to upgrade, here’s some stuff we’ll suggest to you that you’ll need to know or look for before you walk into your LHS or jump online to drop some bucks on a new setup. You can also use these tips if you’re already running an FM crystal-based system, or are looking to replace a radio system that’s broken.

PICK A STYLE
There are 2 main types of transmitter style to choose from:

• Wheel Transmitters – Also known as ‘pistol grip’ transmitters these are now the norm in most drift kits and are easier to get to grips with as a novice. The wheel is use to control the steering and the finger for acceleration/braking. Favoured in the U.S and with new, upcoming drivers.
• Stick Transmitters – A Simple dual stick control transmitter. Once the only type of tranny available these are slowly being replaced in popularity by the later wheel versions. Favoured by old skool drivers and RC plane pilots.

PICK A SIGNAL TYPE
AM systems are the least expensive of the 4 types. Widely available, “amplitude modulation” is cheap but doesn’t give you the clearest signal to and from your radio and chassis. There’s nothing below AM systems, so the only way to change setups is to upgrade. In RC surface applications, there’s basically 3 steps to upgrade from a current AM radio system (in order):

• FM Crystal-based system – An FM “frequency modulation” system gives you a better signal than AM, but still uses crystals to specify channels, so if you want an alternative channel, you’ll have to buy extra pairs of crystals (anywhere from $10-30 a pair). Like AM, FM systems transmit in either 27mHz or 75mHz, and are limited to 6 channels in 27mHz band and about 30 channels in 75mHz band. (Brands: JR Racing, Futaba, KO Propo, Airtronics) Many RTR kits come with an FM based system as standard.
• FM Synthesized – FM Synthesized systems give the same advantages as a regular FM system, with the added benefit of not using crystals. Also, you get all available channels for the particular band, i.e. if you buy a 75mHz synthesized system, you can choose any of the 30 available 75mHz channels to use. Selecting channels is done by manually setting the receiver (using a dial or pot) and then matching the transmitter (somewhere in settings). (Brands: JR Racing, Futaba, KO Propo, Airtronics)
• Digital Spread Spectrum – Digital Spread Spectrum (aka DSM) systems take the synthesized idea one step further. No more manual selection of channels – spread spectrum radio systems automatically select a free channel (frequency), so there’s no channel conflicts, and no crystals to deal with. They work on the 2.4gHz band, and select free/clear channels the same way as bluetooth technology. (Brands: Spektrum Futaba, Nomadio, Airtronics)

LOOK FOR SOME RADIO FEATURES
When you upgrade radios, you’ll no doubt run into another dilemma – all these extra features! But which ones do you need, which ones are just fluff, and which ones can be used for future ideas? Here’s a quicky list of only those features that you should look for or consider:

• D/R (Dual Rate): with the turn of a dial, you can set how far your steering wheels turn equally both left and right.
• Steering EPA (End-Point Adjustment): EPA lets you specify how far your steering servo will go when you turn, so that it won’t go too far (stressing your steering linkages and steering servo.) Similar to D/R, but you set left and right throw individually.
• Steering Curve (aka Steering Exponential): Changes the rate of steering from straight to full lock. A high curve makes the steering quicker initially, and a low curve makes steering less responsive until you reach full lock.
• Throttle Curve (aka Throttle Exponential): Same as steeringexpo, but for the throttle. Let’s you dial in how aggressive the throttle output will be, similar to the difference between easing onto the gas pedal or smashing it to the floor.
• 3rd Channel: Drift cars only need 2 channels to drive. The extra channel is for adding some tricks, i.e. flip-up headlights, opening doors, and whatever else you can rig up.
• Model Memory: If you have more than one vehicle, having multiple model memory means that you just need to get extra receivers for each extra vehicle, instead of complete radio systems for each vehicle.

GET THE FEEL FOR IT
The last but probably most important thing to look for in an upgraded radio system is the feel. Is the steering wheel tension too light or too heavy? How does the radio sit in your hand? Is it front-heavy? Are the controls and adjustments easy to find or do? Don’t just go by feature list when looking for a new radio setup. make sure that you’ll be comfortable using the radio, your going to be holding it for a long time!

Hopefully these tips will help you when it’s time to upgrade your radio setup.

Big thanks to RC Drift Club for this report.